Alla fiera dell’Est

Il mattino dopo, ci siamo svegliati ancora rincoglioniti dallo sbattone del giorno prima e io, per la prima volta nella vita, mi trovavo in viaggio senza un preciso programma.

Abbiamo scoperto sin da subito che persino la colazione al tempo del Covid ha i suoi impicci. Nel primo b&b, come in molti altri incontrati strada facendo, le strutture non ci offrivano il servizio “Breakfast“. E già questo bastava per farti alzare un pò con il piede sbagliato.

Non che questo abbia significato farci partire a stomaco vuoto, quello mai, ma non avere il piacere di alzarsi e, ancora mezzi addormentati e con ancora le ciabatte ai piedi, andare nella sala colazioni a sfondarsi di ogni ben di Dio, mi toglieva un po’ il gusto della vacanza.

Poi ci sta, che i problemi affrontati nel 2020 sono altri, lo so, e va bene così.

Comunque, il punto è che ci trovavamo per la prima volta a girare a vuoto senza una vera e propria meta. Nei mesi precedenti, avevo provato con tutta me stessa a sturdiarmi la Lonely Planet dell’Umbria, ma niente. L’ozio aveva avuto la meglio. Non volevo credere però che uno dei laghi più famosi d’Italia non avesse niente da offrire, perciò, armati di pazienza siamo partiti alla volta del giro del lago nella speranza di venire illuminati strada facendo. 

Una cosa che non mi sarei mai aspettata di fare in Umbria, era un giro in traghetto del lago. Questo genere di gite mi ricordano molto quelle che facevamo in Thailandia, o in generale nel sud est asiatico.

Sotto il sole cocente delle 11 del mattino, siamo partiti con il battello, quello grande alla volta dell’isola Maggiore, e ovviamente, come ogni dannata volta,  abbiamo sbagliato il lato in cui sederci. Punto sempre quello che in una maniera o nell’altra si trova dalla parte del sole durante il tragitto. Io sono una mozzarella, e più di una volta mi sono trovata ustioni di secondo grado sulla pelle prima di giungere a destinazione.

l’Isola Maggiore è una delle tre isole presenti sul Trasimeno, e da quello che ho capito, è diventata nota perché San Francesco d’Assisi vi fece una sorta di pellegrinaggio in solitudine, di cui però non so dirvi molto altro.

Ovviamente, come ogni meta turistica, l’isola ha un centro adiacente all’attracco del molo, dove pullulano i negozietti di souvenirs e i ristorantini, e poi ha tutto un sentiero panoramico, circondato dagli ulivi. Molto carina. Peccato che facesse un caldo boia. Sembrava di essere in Thailandia anche lì. Girarla a piedi richiede più o meno un’oretta, e arrivati dall’altro lato c’è tutta una zona pic-nic più riparata dal sole molto tranquilla.

Avevamo lasciato la macchina al molo, in un paesino che si chiama Passignano sul Trasimeno. Ha un bel borgo, che merita un giro a piedi. Ecco magari, non alle 2 di pomeriggio sotto il sole come abbiamo fatto noi, visto che è tutto un saliscendi di scale, ma merita.

Poi abbiamo continuato il giro del lago passando per Castiglione del Lago. Carino. Anche questo merita come borgo, visto che c’è anche il castello. Peccato il tempismo che abbiamo in Italia per i lavori di ristrutturazione. Mesi e mesi chiuso tutto per pandemia, e ovviamente arriva la bella stagione, vai in giro e trovi autostrade chiuse, code interminabili, e le attrazioni chiuse per manutenzione. Come il castello di Castiglione del Lago a Luglio 2020.

Da qui, siamo poi partiti alla volta di Perugia. Perugia. Io l’ho sempre associata alla filastrocca “ponte ponente ponte pi tappe tappe- rugia” e basta. E lì nella mia mente è rimasta per anni. Se non che, con l’arrivo dei social, sono diventata anch’io una seguace  di Camihawke, che spesso e volentieri condivide contenuti dalla casa di Romy a Perugia, e da lì ho realizzato che è una città che esiste, e che è pure una città piena di bellezza.

Ho cercato per giorni di intravedere il tetto e la casa gialla che lei ha ripreso tutti i giorni durante la pandemia. Ma niente.

Avevamo programmato di farci qualche giorno. Vi avevo detto no che siamo partiti senza prenotazioni? Ecco. Se la prima notte ci siamo trovati in un b&b favoloso, a Perugia siamo finiti in un tugurio orrendo e sporco. Me lo dico sempre io “diffida dalle super offerte Booking” , ma poi ci casco. Porca paletta che schifo di posto. E poi amici, un caldo. La camera era sotto tetto, senza aria condizionata e come vi ho detto abbiamo trovato un caldo fotonico in Umbria. Abbiamo passato due notti d’inferno. Nel vero senso della temperatura . E poi, non vi dico la colazione. Era inclusa una bevanda calda, e una brioches CONFEZIONATA. Cioè, il cornetto Bauli, presente? Ecco. Per carità.

L’unica chicca dell’hotel era la posizione, davvero vicina al centro. Peccato per il parcheggio. Ecco, io non sono pratica ovviamente di Perugia, e non so come spiegarvelo. Ma la macchina l’abbiamo dovuta parcheggiare tipo sulla strada statale che stava sotto le scalinate, che stanno fuori dal centro storico, che sta dentro alle porte romane, che al mercato mio padre comprò.

To be continued….

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