Che non siamo dei grandi appassionati di arte, nè delle cime sulla storia già lo sapete, e mi sembra oltremodo una premessa quasi obsoleta.
Io, che come vi ho già anticipato avevo oziato nella preparazione del viaggio, mi trovato a Perugia per tre giorni, senza saper bene cosa proporre.
Dopo una giornata passata a scarpinare per tutte le scale di cui la città dispone in ogni direzione, passando da Rocca Paolina, fino a Piazza IV Novembre, arrivando fino all’arco Etrusco, avevamo, a nostro avviso già goduto di tutto quello che la città poteva offrire a due capre come noi.
Il giorno due, dopo quella gustosa colazione proposta dal nostro hotel degli orrori, abbiamo puntato dritti verso Assisi.
Bella anche Assisi.
Abbiamo visitato la famosa Basilica di San Francesco (unica chiesa che ci siamo concessi di visitare in questo viaggio) e anche la maestosa Rocca Maggiore, anche se la gita che mi sento di consigliare ancor di più per chi visita il famoso borgo umbro, è Eremo delle Carceri, che, dopo esserci squagliati sono il sole delle 11 di mattina, e aver sudato come dei cammelli nell’affrontare l’ennesimo migliaio di scalini, ci ha offerto un magnifico sentiero fresco in mezzo ai boschi dove rifocillarci.
Tutti sappiamo ormai della mia, anzi della nostra grande passione per il cibo, e devo ammettere che in tutta franchezza mi ha un pò deluso. Forse colpa delle aspettative stellari, quella sera, tornati all’hotel cotti dalla giornata, non avevamo voglia della terza cena consecutiva a base di Torte al Testo, e bruschette varie, e quindi, ci siamo incamminati in quella che abbiamo dedotto fosse la zona più studentesca, dove la varietà di ristorantini economici etnici era più fiorente.
Alla fine, ci siamo mangiati una zuppa cinese, e poi, dritti nel letto, nella speranza che quella camera dalle temperature infernali, potesse offrirci un po di tregua per quella notte. Cosa che ovviamente non è avvenuta.
Il giorno dopo, era finalmente il giorno in cui avremmo lasciato quella topaia per un giro dell’oca che nemmeno nelle migliori partite post pranzo di Natale avevo fatto. Avremmo fatto ‘Umbria Centro’- Lazio- ‘Umbria sopra’- ‘Umbria dall’altra parte’, tutto in un giorno, visitando cose nel mentre.
La prima tappa che avevamo puntato era il borgo di Civita di Bagnoregio. Ormai famosa su tutte le pagine Ig che parlano di viaggi, risulterebbe uno dei borghi imperdibili d’Italia.
Il fascino sta nell’ubicazione di questo borgo, raggiungibile a piedi (lasciando la macchina in un parcheggio a pagamento che pagherete con i reni del vostro primo genito) , solamente tramite un lungo ponte che lo collega alla collina adiacente. Il suo triste soprannome “la città che muore” descrive un bel borgo medioevale che negli anni si è svuotato sempre più sino ad essere ormai quasi completamente disabitato. All’interno troverete un sacco di ristorantini, b&b e ricostruzioni storiche per turisti e, se siete capaci di fare le foto, è davvero un posto instagrammabile. Noi in due ore l’abbiamo girato tutto, e abbiamo pure pranzato.
Nel pomeriggio abbiamo fatto tappa a Orvieto, che avevo letto essere imperdibile.
Questi termini che usano tutte le guide e i blog di viaggio, si dimenticano di specificare una cosa importante secondo me ovvero ‘imperdibile sempre che di arte e storia ci capisci qualcosa..’. Infatti anche a Orvieto, abbiamo puntato su quello che è secondo me l’attività un pò più alternativa, ovvero la visita (guidata per forza) della Orvieto Underground.
Consigliata? Sì.
Poi la città di per sé anche è bellissima. Ha una location strepitosa, ed è un borgo affascinante. Che però ad ignoranti come noi, sembrava un pò uguale a tanti altri.
E dire che io a scuola ho studiato arte, ed ero pure brava. Niente, un buco nero nella memoria il mio periodo scolastico. Non ricordo una fava.
L’unica materia che mi sento di dire mi abbia portato un reale beneficio nella vita è stata informatica. Non perché io faccia l’informatico, o perché sappia risolvere problemi legati ai telefoni o al pc, ve lo dico subito. Anzi. Ma devo dire che le legnate che ci tirava la professoressa Marone sulle mani, quando sbirciavamo sotto i fogli che usava per coprirci le mani e la tastiera durante i dettati, mi hanno indotto doti dattilografe che ancora oggi sfrutto alla grande. Mica per niente, ho deciso di scrivere un Blog, e per dire non di fare il critico d’arte.
Da qui, ci siamo sparati altri 80 km di macchina, durante il quale io ho cercato una sistemazione DECENTE per la notte, perchè il giorno dopo avremmo affrontato una tappa importante, l’ultima in Umbria, per poi spararci un viaggio direzione Puglia, e la necessità di un riposo decoroso era sentita nelle ossa di over trentenni.
Inutile dire che quando mi impegno, sono proprio brava. Ho trovato un paradiso. ‘La Porta della Valnerina’ è un graziosissimo casolare in mezzo alla natura, e riparato dagli alberi, con delle camere silenziose, larghe, comode e attrezzate. Una cucina comune che offriva la possibilità di cucinare, e veniva attrezzata con tutte le delizie utili a una colazione con i fiocchi, e AVEVA LA PISCINA.
Noi, che era tutto il giorno che viaggiavamo in macchina, e camminavamo sotto il sole in giro per i borghi ci siamo goduti quello scorcio di tranquillità come se fosse la prima volta che vedevamo uno specchio d’acqua.
Anche alla sera, su consiglio dei padroni di casa, ci siamo sfondati di cibo e vino in una trattoria vicina, dove abbiamo mangiato davvero bene. Che soddisfazione.
Con un letto comodo, in una camera pulita, in una struttura fresca, in mezzo al nulla, e con la pancia piena, siamo crollati felici, e consapevoli che il giorno dopo ci avrebbe aspettato una delle tappe più attese, per poi puntare finalmente al mare…
To be continued…..
335 commenti su “Il giro dell’oca”
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